When you
read this, I will be in Italy, if all goes as planned. And for once, I didn't have to do the
planning—this is a trip for a group of us who were in the same college class,
proposed a year ago at one of those milestone reunions. Two classmates who have access to villas and
vineyards and good things like that are doing all the organizing; all I have to
do is show up. No spouses or significant
others allowed. I feel like I'm walking
into a Lifetime network movie.
I always
knew I wanted to go to Europe, thanks mainly to my grandmother. As I've mentioned before, she was orphaned
young, and anything she achieved in life she did through her own efforts. She ended up in upper management at Lipton
Tea Company in New York in the 1950s, which was a pretty significant
achievement in those days.
She was
"encouraged" to retire in 1958, when she wasn't even sixty. Her long-time mentor was retiring, and a new
administration was coming in, so she had little choice. But the company gave her a nice parting gift: a luxury trip to Europe. This was defined as a working trip: she had been instrumental in assembling a
collection of tea-related antique silver items for the Lipton Collection, and
she was asked to take it on the road to the capitals of Europe that summer.
And they
put her up in style! She took the Queen
Elizabeth (the first) one way, the Queen Mary the other. She had a driver in each country. All her rooms were booked for her, all
meetings scheduled, all appointments made. All she had to do was be there and
be charming, which she did well.
And of course she sent postcards to my mother, my sister and me. We dutifully kept them and put them all in an album, which I still have, so I can reconstruct the trip. If we assembled it right, she started in London (not surprising, since most of the silver pieces were English in origin), and the first postcards are of the guards at Buckingham Palace, in late June of 1958. Then Holland (yes, colored postcards of cute little Dutch girls wearing wooden clogs), Lake Lucerne, and on into Italy—Florence, Rome, Venice (lots of postcards from Venice—she must have liked it!), and finally Paris, by way of the chateaux of the Loire Valley. The trip took a month.
Then she
joined us at our rented house on the Jersey shore, laden with souvenirs—I still
have some of the little soaps and tiny perfume bottles she brought me, tucked
in a trunk in the attic.
Her trip
had a tremendous impact on me. I knew
early that I wanted to follow in her footsteps (only more than just once!), and
ended up majoring in art history so I'd have a professional excuse to do
it. It was fun traveling as a starving
student back in those days, when you could get a prix-fixe three-course meal
for less than five dollars, and a hotel room in the country might cost you
ten. Renting a car (a Deux Chevaux which
sounded like a lawn mower and had about as much power) was the big splurge, but
it enabled me to see out-of-the-way places and small towns, and actually talk
to people. So I visited all the sites
(except for Holland) that matched the long-ago postcards from my grandmother,
and much more. And later I took my
mother and my daughter (together) on the same trip through France.
For a while
life got in the way, so there was a decade or more without any grand trips, but
now I'm making up for lost time. And
forty years after my first (and only) visit to Florence, I'm going back, to
visit the Duomo and the Uffizi and Michelangelo's David—and the extraordinary
gelato! My first visit was with a college classmate, so it's fitting that the
next one should be as well, except that this time there will be thirty of us,
and drivers. And the better part of a
lifetime of accumulated wisdom so I can appreciate what I only glanced at
before.